03 A4 1.8t quattro 5MT Build Progress

Discussion in 'Audi and BMW Related' started by Slark, Feb 14, 2015.

  1. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    I recently picked up my first Audi, 3rd Vag product and 2nd 1.8t.
    177k miles
    New clutch(unsure of brand)
    Lightweight flywheel
    2.0t coil conversion
    High flow cat
    Ecs tuning vent boost gauge

    I also received a box of parts, including 4 brk7e's, 4 tt225 injectors, and other assorted parts.

    Car runs well, no cel or other lights. Sunroof motor is weak. Tracks straight. Has a vibration between 1500-1900 Rpms under load(cat banging on something?)

    Headliner is sagging in a few spots, what's the best way to go about fixing that?

    My first step is replacing the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. No clue when it was done, so I'm just gunna knock it out. I'm looking at the jhm kit with metal impeller.

    After that I'll be doing the valve cover gasket, looking for other lines that need replacing. Maintenance first. For 177k this car is very clean, some minor clear coat peel on trunk and roof. (Best way to fix???)

    Thoughts on vagcom? Ross tech preferred? I want to be able to diag and clear codes, run test and logs.

    As far as mods go, I'm looking for a conservative amount of power, maybe a BT setup far in the future. I've run apr stage 2+ on a mk4 jetta 1.8t, loved it. Every mod I do I want to be quality.
    I'm thinking, (in order)
    Snub mount
    Engine/tranny mounts
    Rear diff mount
    Short shifter(brand suggestions?)
    Diverter valve(I ran the r1 before, good option?)
    Turbo inlet pipe(silicone)
    Throttle body inlet pipe
    Turbo back with test pipe
    Apr stage 2 w/injectors
    Fmic(are there kits that I won't need to hack the front bumper for?)
    After all that, then I'll worry about lowering it.

    After that I'm just going to enjoy it. I'm active duty military and married so progress may be slow, but the end result will be clean.

    Thanks for any input anyone has!
  2. sasquatch

    sasquatch Posting- God

    Lower it first. Then snub mount/diverter valve and stage 1 tune at the same time.

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  3. RoachinRay

    RoachinRay Bags&Wheels BRUH

    I know Boeckel has the stage 2+ on his car. the tune with injectors.....it makes a huge difference with the injectors. drove my room mates b6 with a tune and its nice, but you can def tell the difference with them
  4. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    Lowering is last. Maintenance, go fast, go low.

    Might do snub mount when I do timing service, it's easy and cheap.
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2015
  5. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    Current issues to be fixed:
    No heat. PO flushed heater core but didn't properly bleed, so I need to do that.

    Coolant flush. Currently rockin some green stuff with stop leak in there. Will be flushing and refilling with g13 when I do the t belt.
    Timing belt/water pump. Looking at the kit from blauparts because they include the updated non hydraulic tensioner.
  6. 18t papa

    18t papa I'M OLD PAT!

    Stop leak? I'd drain that shit ASAP. That stuff is bad news typically.
  7. sasquatch

    sasquatch Posting- God

    I actually agree with nick on this one. Especially if it is just basic green coolant

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  8. budsdubbin

    budsdubbin Posting- God

    There is a bleeder hole on one of your heater hoses going to the core. You pull one back far enough so that the hole in the hose is exposed and it will bleed.
  9. RoachinRay

    RoachinRay Bags&Wheels BRUH

    b6 heater cores suck
  10. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    That's what I've read, once it's not 0 degrees out(which from what I keep hearing is a hell of a lot warmer than buffalo) I'll tackle that.
  11. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    I agree with both of you. I'm not currently dailying it, so I'm not too worried about it at the moment. Once it's plated though it's my number one priority with the t belt.

    Any reason I shouldn't just knock out the head gasket while I'm doing the t belt service? I also have an oil cooler that was with the car, I'm assuming the current one may be leaking, because who buys an oil cooler randomly.
  12. lorge1989

    lorge1989 Posting- God

    One does not just 'knock out' a headgasket because you are doing a t-belt. lol
  13. sasquatch

    sasquatch Posting- God

    No reason to just do a head gasket unless there is signs of failure or leaks.
    Iikely the oil Cooler could just use a new gasket. Once it lets go you'll know it.

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  14. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    The only reason I'm considering it is because of the stop leak and crap coolant in there. If I do the t belt and not the head gasket, and then I find out its leaking, I'll have wasted a ton of time. Plus it's a lot easier to just pull all the top end stuff off to get to the oil cooler etc.

    Okay, it's not easy, but I guarantee it's the original head gasket. I'd really hate to blow it after doing all this work.
  15. sasquatch

    sasquatch Posting- God

    The head gasket is fine. Is your oil and coolant mixing? Is it overheating on the regular and burning fluids? Just Flush the coolant system really well and it will probably be fine. I had 192k on my 1.8t, driven hard and put away wet, and never had a concern with the head gasket. I bought it with unknown service history and it was fine.

    Maybe do a valve cover gasket cause it it stupid easy but without any symptoms of a blown head gasket I would just leave it alone

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  16. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    I think I'll feel better once I flush and get the t belt done. And yes valve cover gasket is badly needed. Thanks for the words of wisdom. I think it's too easy to overthink these cars and do unnecessary maintenance.
  17. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    Figured out the clutch is the ra4 kit from Ecs. (B5 s4 pressure plate and clutch, steel lightweight flywheel)
    Fluidampr should be arriving today. I can't believe I never heard of it before very recently. Probably a very common overlooked part.

    2 gallons of OEM g13 coolant coming, fcp euro has a great deal on it.

    Check engine light came on, scanned and found only p3081: engine temp too low. I ordered both coolant sensors, hopefully it's the green top and not the thermostat. Also ordered a new expansion tank, current one has some cracks forming.

    Overall the car is treating me well. Transmission feels exceptionally tight for the mileage, and the ra4 clutch is a great upgrade even on a mostly stock engine. Will post a review of the fluidampr once installed.
    Pics for attention...
    Love the white clusters lights..
  18. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    A few things have been done since last update:

    What a difference! Engine feels much much smoother. My engine mounts are kinda done for, so I still get vibration at idle sometimes, but there are times when I can't tell the car is on. Pulls through the rev range smoothly.

    Flushed coolant with the yucky stop leak in it out and replaced with g13. Got my heat to work too!

    I was going through my Pcv lines and found this beauty:
    I stuck a closed end wrench and pounded the dent out slightly. It's a pretty good crimp though. New that line is about 100 so I'll leave it as is for now.

    Last weekend I went to do my valve cover gasket, and noticed a had a pretty good coolant leak. Fook. It was dripping from the lower timing cover, so I figured it was the seal around the water pump. Finished up the valve cover gasket, replaced a few hose clamps. I replaced the pfq6 spark plugs with new bkr7e's gapped at .032 to match the 2.0t coils. Honestly I noticed a pretty big difference in throttle response and butt dyno tells me I gained about 5 - 10 hp back.

    After reconnecting everything I took off the top and middle timing covers and inspected the coolant leak and I was right, the water pump seal is leaking. I noticed the leak after the car sat for 2 days, and it doesn't seem to leak when the car is warm, so I assume the seal swells and seals, and leaks when cold.

    I've been wanting to do the timing belt anyways, so I order the blauparts kit with the updated tensioner and metal impeller water pump. I'll just reuse my coolant.

    So this weekends projects are timing service, and installing my apr snub. Then I'm off to Cali for a month long training exercise. Yay!

  19. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    Update: got the timing belt and water pump done. I used the kit from blauparts with the updated tension and metal impeller pump. I also installed the apr snub, and adjusted the bracket correctly.
    Old and new tensioners. I believe the old had failed or was failing. After sitting for 2 days or so the timing belt was loose; like really lose. When I manually turned engine over to make sure it hadn't slipped a tooth, it tightened back up a little.
    The new style is a simple eccentric type. You use an Allen to set tension and then tighten the nut to spec. It allows for some variation.
    Everything back on...
    Buttoned up with apr snub.
    Mein katz.
    Overall it wasn't difficult at all. Took about 6 hours with lengthy breaks. Performed in my apartment parking lot with right side jacked up slightly. Saved about 800 bucks.
  20. Slark

    Slark Well-Known Member

    Haven't posted in a little, so here's an update:
    Removed headliner to re wrap, hoping to finish up this weekend.
    Installed new front and rear pads and rotors, I used optimal front rotors, Brembo rear and Brembo pads.
    The clear coat is really bothering my ocd, so I'm looking at getting it dipped soon. I think it'll help mine and my wife's sanity. I worry about it wayyyy too much.

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